Today we will talk about such basic concepts as machine stitches . Seams made on a sewing machine are called machine stitches. When sewing a product, the largest volume is occupied by machine work. Nowadays, adhesive and welding methods are widely practiced, but the thread method of joining parts, processing edges and finishing products is the most popular. The elements of a thread connection are: stitch, line and seam.
Machine seams and stitches
It is necessary to have an understanding of stitches and lines in order to study seams and use them correctly when sewing products.
A stitch is a complete cycle of weaving one or more threads on a material between two needle punctures.
The stitch according to the method of execution can be: manual and machine;
According to the nature of the weave, machine stitch can be: shuttle, chain;
by number of threads: one, two, three and multi-thread.
The machine stitch length ranges from 1 to 10 mm.
A stitch is a sequential series of stitches, which means that the properties of the stitches will relate to the properties of the stitch: a lockstitch or chain stitch.
Stitches can be linear: stitches alternate to form a line; zigzag: stitches are placed at an angle to each other, which, in turn, can be simple or complex. Complex zigzag stitches are used to make knitted seams, hemming and finishing seams. There can also be lines with the stitches arranged perpendicular to the stitch line - overcasting and buttonhole stitches.
All these lines can be performed on different household machines. They are designed to perform various operations: connecting parts, sewing sections, sewing buttonholes, sewing on buttons, performing finishing stitches and embroidery. The linear (straight) lockstitch stitch is the most popular; it is used to make most seams: overstitching, overstitching, overcasting, overlaying, finishing, and so on. Machines that perform this type of stitching are called universal. Machines that perform chain stitching are called special machines, since they perform a narrower task: overcasting sections, hemming edges, processing knitted materials.
Technological parameters of the line:
Stitches for simultaneous execution can be one-, two- or multi-line. Two-line stitches in everyday life can be performed using a double needle in a lockstitch machine. In this case, the bottom thread alone belongs to both top threads.- Two and multi-line chain stitch lines can be performed on household machines - carpet lockers. Two, three, four and five threads are used simultaneously when making different seams.
- Stitch length in mm. or the number of stitches in 1 cm - stitch frequency. The frequency of stitching depends on the type of material and assigned
Ia seam. More frequent stitching is used in seams subject to heavy loads. This is the sleeve seam, shoulder and side seams, seat seam and others.
4. The width of the zigzag stitch is adjusted in mm.
5. The number of needle and thread is selected for the specific fabric from which the product is made. Needles should not be dull. The threads are matched to the color of the fabric. For finishing stitches - according to the model.
Seam - joining several layers of material with one or more lines.
Seams and stitches often have the same meaning and are sometimes called seams, sometimes lines, or vice versa. There is confusion in words not only in everyday life, but also among specialists, and even in the GOST definition: “a line is a sequential row of stitches, a seam is a sequential row of stitches on a material with a thickness of one or several layers.” And although stitches and seams need to be distinguished, in fact they are not distinguishable: a finishing stitch laid across the fabric is a seam, a gathering stitch laid on the material in one layer is also a seam. We don't see any difference in this case. The same applies to the GOST definition. In other words, don’t worry if you get the name wrong, the main thing is to understand the difference in essence.
Seams are a component of product quality, so very high demands are placed on them:
- Machine stitches must be even.
- The width of the seam should be the same along the entire length of the seam.
- The stitching should not burst when stretched.
- The stitches must be of high quality: equal in length and the interlacing of the lockstitch threads must be in the middle of the thickness of the fabric.
- The fabric along the seam should not be seated (gathered).
- The ends of the stitches in the seams must be secured.
- The line must be complete. If for some reason the stitching was not completed, then it is necessary to continue it only by making a bartack. “Extensions” are not allowed on finishing seams. The stitch needs to be unstitched and re-done.
In order for the seams to turn out to be of high quality, it is necessary to follow the rules for making seams: how to fold the parts, which end to start the stitching from, which part to sew on and what width of the seam.
When sewing, unless there are special requirements, the product must be placed on the left so that the seam allowance is to the right of the needle. The distance from the stitch to the cut of the part is called the width of the seam. The width of the seam depends on the type of seam, model, thickness and quality of the fabric (in fraying fabrics the seam width, for example, is larger). If there were lines of temporary stitching, they must be carefully removed after completing the seam. Finished seams need to be ironed: first from the wrong side, then from the front side through the ironing iron.
The choice of certain seams depends on their purpose, fabric fraying, and the availability of special equipment. When sewing items without lining, the stitches and seams must be clean and even, since they are all open. To avoid cutting through materials, do not use dull needles, and the pressure of the foot should not be strong.
Classification of machine seams
We must move on to the classification of machine seams , and this is where an ambush awaits us!
There are two types of classification of thread seams: according to GOST and according to purpose.
We read:
“ The classification of seams by purpose is used to select the processing of cuts and parts, when describing the manufacturing technology of a model, and to unambiguously define a seam in a business conversation between
But there is no such classification in GOST! And there is a classification consisting of 8 classes in accordance with the international classification, which places all the seams not according to their intended purpose, but based on the location of the layers of materials being joined. And in these classes, all the seams known to us are not located at all in the order in which we were taught, we taught and are still teaching our children and grandchildren. (Textbook of technology for girls, edited by Simonenko § 22, “Machine seams”).
seam designations technology grade 5
machine stitch patterns for comparison
I wrote this article almost a week ago. I have known the material for more than thirty years, I removed a roller along the connecting seams, and prepared another one along the remaining machine seams. Everything is fine. As a teacher, I have a technology manual on this topic: a serious article “Machine thread seams and their application” in the professional magazine “School and Production” with reference to GOST 12807-79 “Sewing products. Classification of stitches, lines and seams." The article says (verbatim):
“In accordance with GOST ... machine thread seams, according to their purpose and the location of the parts being connected, are divided into connecting, edge and finishing.”
I personally have never seen an official document - a real GOST, in addition, during all the time I have been working, I have never seen any of my colleagues have anything different from what I know and what is written here. Also, the entire space of the “sewing” Internet contains the same information. That is, everyone gives the same classification of seams - according to their intended purpose.
Since I would like to maintain my website at a high enough level so that subscribers and visitors can trust me, I decided to correct the GOST date, thinking that there had already been a reissue over the years. I found GOST on the official standardization website and was shocked.
Already in 1988, there was a reissue of GOST, in which classes appear and there is not a word about the three categories of seams according to their intended purpose. In 2003, a new edition of GOST was published and there were the same classes and again not a word about the three groups of seams for their intended purpose. GOST for 1979 has already been deleted and I can’t find out now what was written there? Where did this classification by purpose come from, who came up with these three categories? The worst thing is that the seams that are indicated in the classes do not at all coincide with the types of seams found in the groups. And what is truer, what is more correct, what is more legal? In accordance with what regulatory document should seams be divided according to their intended purpose?
In the old GOST it is written both “by purpose” and by “location” of the seams. In the new GOST we read:
“The main classification feature of the materials being joined is the arrangement of the layers.”
And the most interesting thing is that all the seams in the GOST classification (and there are more than two hundred of them) are called “stitched”, when, according to the accepted division into three groups, only four seams are classified as stitched!
Table 2.1 of GOST 12807-, 2003... is called
table 2.1 GOST
In GoST there are different seams: edging, overhead, finishing and so on, but note that they are not talking about machine seams, but about stitched seams. ????
For two days after this unpleasant discovery, I was simply sick and could not do anything. Then I began to study, analyze, trying to understand the logic of the unification. It’s not for nothing that they say: teaching a scientist only spoils him. The revolution is not only in the brain, but also in the understanding that what I was confident in for so many years has collapsed. There are more than two hundred seams in total, including seams that were not considered before. And now, having gathered my thoughts, I am writing the article again. I’m still in a trance state, but already with an established scheme for seeing the problem.
Why such passions, you say? What difference does it make what seams are located where? Once upon a time in the sixties, in the sewing circles of the Houses of Culture, “grandmothers” carried out cutting according to measurements: POT, POB, and so on. This is how measurements were once designated. When I came to study, we already had designations: St., Sat. and so on. The sites are run by all my peers - students of those distant sixties - now also grandmothers. And the textbooks are not only written by “grandmothers”, but also not sewing specialists at all (judging by various signs). The teachers are also the same “grandmothers” - all my peers, only still working. Some kind of “general society of grandmothers” who are stuck in the past and are in no hurry to catch up with time, or rather, do not correspond.
Of course, you can sew the same dresses with both POT and ST. And in this topic, if you close your eyes to GOST, then you can simply sew something, call something somehow. And everything will work out. You can not speak at all and sew well too. But people search on the Internet for “types of machine seams”, “classification of machine seams”, some even using the old concepts of “connecting seams” - people want to know! And there are about 160 more requests “ GOST sewing seams” . Therefore, I can no longer speak as before. I will have to speak not only in the old way, but also in the new way. You have the right to choose.
lesson notes on technology 7 machine stitches
The lesson introduces students to machine seams used when sewing skirts. Perform connecting and edge seams in compliance with technology. write down the “Machine seam” diagram in your workbook) <slide No. 7>. Outline of a technology lesson on the topic: “Production and properties of chemical fibers.. Outline of a labor training lesson in the 7th grade with elements of a school regional... Types of machine seams 2012/13. Lesson outline on technology in 5. Lesson outline on.. “lesson outline on machine seams in 5th grade” The lesson introduces students to machine seams used when sewing a skirt.. perform connecting and edge seams in compliance with technology. write down the “Machine seam” diagram in your workbook) <slide No. 7>. The largest number of needles is available on machines of the 7th and 10th classes. With an elongated fontura they are found. Lesson objectives: Educational: Teach students how to process connecting seams correctly technologically, correctly.. Lesson plans · Master classes · Distance learning. The purpose of the lesson:. A. T. Trukhaiova “Illustrative manual on technology. To familiarize students with the technology of making machine seams. relative to the top by the width of the finishing stitch +4.7mm for outerwear and 7. January 27, 2013. Presentation “Hand stitches and machine seams.” Ivanova Natalya. Summary of an open lesson in 5th grade “Hand stitches and stitches.” Presentation for technology lessons on the topic “Machine seams” for grades 5-7. Machine seams Technology lesson 5th grade Teacher Chibezova O.I. Municipal educational institution "OSH 44", Saratov. Plan - outline of a technology lesson in the 6th grade using ICT. Lesson objectives: Educational: To teach students how to process connecting seams correctly, correctly, technologically. lesson notes on technology 7 machine. lesson notes on technology 7 machine stitches. July 11, 2014. Test “Machine seams”. Task 1. Machine connecting seams include: hem seams with an open cut;; in edging;; old From the experience of technology teacher Zorina G.A. Development of a lesson with a presentation for grades 5-6 “Machine seams and their purpose” download 2.5 MB Lesson summary with a presentation for grades 6-7. Lesson topic: “Embroidery. December 6, 2012. Lesson plan on technology (grade 5) on the topic: Machine seams. Students become familiar with the types of machine seams.. (slide No. 7). Lesson plan on technology (grade 5) on the topic:. The presentation contains the classification of machine seams, terminology of hand and machine seams. All subjects -> Technology -> Technology lessons, development of open technology lessons. Lesson summary on technology “Making machine seams and stitches. Connecting seams“.. using Machine seams technology. Development of a technology lesson. contains a lesson summary. July 2, 2009. The new publication will focus on machine seams used for... Seams that connect parts of a product made of all types of fabrics. inside and lay the second line, retreating from the edge by 0.5-0.7 cm. Sep 3, 2014. lesson notes on technology in grades 8 types of machine seams. Solovyova. Development of a lesson (note) on technology in the 7th grade. The presentation was compiled for a combined lesson on technology (service work) in grade 5 “Machine seams”.. Summary of an English lesson on the topic “Books are our friends”. Tahirka..
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Types of machine seams
All machine seams according to their intended purpose are divided into three groups:
- connecting,
- regional,
- finishing.
This is how machine seams are also discussed in technology lessons.
Conditionally, because there are seams that can be classified into two different groups at once.
Each group contains subgroups and types of seams. We look at the tables of machine seams. Each group speaks for itself. Let's look at machine seams in the tables.
Connecting seams connect the parts of the product.
Edge seams also speak for themselves: they are used to process all open edges of parts: collars, sides, bottoms, and so on.
We decorate clothes with finishing seams Decorative reliefs also serve as design lines: with their help, the silhouette of the product is created. The seams used to process folds and reliefs are called finishing.
We will talk about all these classes in more detail in separate articles.
GOST: sewing seams
We have already talked about the current GOST 12807-2003 standard
We have given definitions of stitches, lines and seams, we know that all seams are divided into eight classes and we know by what criteria. Looking at Table 2.1 shown above, I will explain the GOST classification into classes with examples of machine seams in the diagrams and in the description.
- A seam connects at least two layers of material, bounded on the same side and located at different levels. The seam can be made with a fabric edging, for example, the main thing is that any other layer of the seam should be limited on the same side or on both sides - braid, for example. Seams: stitched into a frame, stitched with an edging, stitched with an edging, and so on.
classification of seams according to GOST
2. A seam connects two or more layers of material, limited on different sides and located at different levels. The seam can also have edging or braid, the main thing is that these layers are limited on one or both sides. For example: an invoice with a closed cut, a lock, a sewing invoice, an invoice with a closed cut with braid or lace.
3. Seams consisting of two or more layers of material, one of which is limited on both sides. Additional layers should also be limited on one or both sides. For example: edging (a strip of material with a closed cut), edging (a strip of material with a closed cut) with braid or lace.
classification of seams according to GOST
4. Seams located at the same level, limited on different sides and can consist of two or more layers. Example: butt with open cuts, butt with closed cuts, cover stitch, butt with a strip of material.
5. Seams consisting of one or more layers of material that are not limited on both sides, and any other layer is limited on one or both sides. For example, finishing stitching, tucks, adding a bow fold and others.
6. Seams made of one layer of material, limited on one side. Example: stitching for gathering, hem seam, tuck, trim trim.
classification of seams according to GOST
7. Seams formed from two or more layers of material, one of which is limited on one side. Any other layer is limited on both sides. Adjusting braid or lace, hem seam with a closed cut while inserting a cord, processing the trim with interfacing, processing the upper cut of a skirt (trousers) and others.
8. Seams from one or more layers of material, limited on both sides. Any other layer is also limited on both sides. Sewing along the braid, ruffle to form a gather; processing of belt loops, straps; sewing a strip of material for edging while inserting a cord, processing a belt with a gasket.
Symbols for machine seams and stitches.
seam symbols
Today we took a tour on the topic of machine stitches.
But for me the question of classifying machine seams remained open. If anyone has this information, please share it in the comments.
Ask questions. If the article was useful, share it with your friends on social networks, I would be grateful for your likes. By subscribing to the news, you will not miss new lessons, and will also receive a useful book as a gift, “Sewing machine for home use.”
With love, Olga Zlobina
Almost no garment is created without the use of machine stitches. Hand stitches mainly perform a temporary function of connecting parts, etc., but the final stage in the work is often the laying of machine stitches, which can also have a decorative and finishing purpose.
Machine seams are divided into groups depending on the amount of seam allowance, the number of machine stitches, as well as the bonded layers of materials being joined - that is, on the overall design. There is no clear boundary between groups of machine seams. For example, a connecting seam can also be a finishing seam, etc. In addition, a combination of various seams is not excluded. The classification of stitches, lines and seams can be considered in more detail in “GOST 12807-2003 - Sewing products. Classification of stitches, lines and seams." Below are the most popular and frequently used machine stitches and stitches, depending on their purpose.
Connecting machine seams
- Ironed connecting seam
- ironing
- setting open cuts
- open cut label
- linen sewing machine
Edge machine seams
- Hem-to-hem edge seam with open cut
- hem with closed cut
- hem with edged cut
- overturned in frame
- edging with open cut
Connecting machine seams (for fastening parts)
Connecting seam
Connecting stitch seam - for stitching sections, attaching small parts to larger ones, grinding strips, etc. There is a difference between a stitched ironing and a stitched ironing. With a backstitching, the seam allowances (cuts) are ironed in one direction, and with a backstitching - in different directions. They come with or without overcast edges.
Stitch ironing
Stachny ironing
Connecting seam
Connecting stitch - for connecting parts overlapping one another, connecting and securing seam allowances and folds directed in one direction. It is also often used to join parts of a product made of dense fabrics in order to obtain a thinner seam thickness. There are adjustment seams with open cuts and adjustment seams with closed cuts.
Set-up with open cuts
Adjustment with closed cut
Connecting overlay seam
Connecting patch seam - for connecting interlining parts when sewing yokes and patch pockets. There are overlay seams with open cuts and overlays with closed cuts.
Open cut label
Closed cut invoice
Connecting topstitch
Connecting topstitch - for finishing, as well as connecting parts of the product without allowing the seams to be ironed (specific materials - leather, etc.).
Connecting linen seam
Connecting linen seam - to ensure the strength and aesthetics of bedding, shirts, blouses, as well as sports equipment, industrial clothing, linen, products made from fine fabrics. There are three types of linen seams: linen closed, linen lock and double linen (French).
Linen sewing
Linen castle
Linen double (French)
Edge machine seams (for processing edges and cuts from fraying)
Hem edge seam
Hem edge seam - for processing the bottom of products, sleeves and other parts made of easily fraying fabrics (when sewing linen, outerwear, etc.). There are edge hems with an open cut, hems with a closed cuts, and hems with an edged cut.
Hem with open cut
Hem with closed cut
Hem with edged edge
Edge overstitch
Edge facing seam - for processing facing parts from thin fabrics - collars, cuffs, etc., to prevent displacement of the connection and increase the stability of the contour of the parts during clothing wear. They mainly use edge edging into a frame, edging into a complex frame, and edging overturning.
Overstitched in frame
Stitched into a complex frame
Welt in edging
Edge edging seam
Edge edging seam - for processing the edges of products, for decorating collars, side edges, etc. There are edge edging with an open cut, edging with a closed cut and edging with braid.